Thursday, April 2, 2015

April Flowers on the Appalachian Trail

Spring arrived at Maple Tree Campground on 26 Mar this year

30 Apr: Today we agreed to end our hike. The rocks in Pennsylvania have been NO FUN, and we don't need to risk our bodies and health to the whims of the elitist trail maintainers who think that Thru-hikers should be subjected to every stretch of NASTY rocks that they can find. Equally galling was the obvious disregard for basic trail maintenance (clearing water bars for instance, trimming overhanging trees for another, clearing smaller logs across the trail, preventing erosion by constructing water bars ... the list is endless). We are quite pleased with our hike; we enjoyed hiking every day; we got much stronger (and Younger Next Year). Camping was not Cynthia's favorite activity, but she adapted marvelously well to camping on this, her first camping trip. (Who else do you know that hiked 160 miles on her first camping trip?) So we are jumping north to a favorite spot, the Inn at Long Trail, which opens 22 May. There we can walk out the door and hike in any of five directions, see how our trail maintenance has held up in the intervening two years, and encourage hikers to use the OLD AT, now known as the Sherbourne Pass Trail, which we maintain whenever we stay there. Unless Ron gets a knee replacement, our future Appalachian Trail section hikes will be limited to five days between resupply and might involve zero-mile days for trail maintenance.

 

 

Rausch Gap was pretty place
man-made waterfall was scenic
Skyline will disappear in two weeks
geese laughing while Ron crossed log
This "bridge" is an accident waiting to happen

30 Apr: We were out of the tent early today, 7:15, and RevC hiked out of camp by 8:30, new records for us. The four Thru-hikers and Pack left before Cynthia, Bear and Rain & Sprinkles later. Shakedown Cruise was the last one out. He hiked along at full tilt boogie and passed Rain & Sprinkles after a mile and caught up to Cynthia at the top of that first long, long uphill. Strange that the hike today was again very pleasant with very few unbearably rocky segments. Trail reroutes and erosion were still highly visible and irritating. Sad to see excellent early construction left untended and eroding during every storm. We were surprised that our hike today dragged on long after we expected to be finished. The final uphill and downhill on raw, new, unimproved trail was an insult to sensible hikers. The high-water tree trunk crossing pictured was daunting and dangerous. After Ron crossed, he sought out a much less risky crossing for Cynthia.


29 Apr: Gosh, how quickly the memory vanishes. We awoke early, and again it was a pleasure that water was so near. RevC agreed to start hiking early rather than be chilled while waiting for Shakedown Cruise to finish packing; he didn't start until 10:46. Today the trail was much more pleasant and comfortable than previous days. It was actually pleasurable hiking. Ron set out at a very rapid clip to catch Cynthia and enjoyed the athletic exertion; his trail legs are developing nicely, painlessly. He caught sight of Cynthia on a continual uphill grind on an old road with good waterbars that needed to be cleaned, so he commenced cleaning after touching base with Cynthia. Along the trail today we met first Bear, eating lunch, and later Pack, resting beneath the sign for the "General," a derelict 1920s gasoline-powered coal shovel abandoned in the woods. Ron soon caught up to cynthia and invited her to lunch. Afterwards we continued on a nice, mostly-level trail through obvious coal mined country to the Rausch Gap Shelter. As we followed the blue blaze to the shelter, that very wide, very level, coal-covered pathway suddenly seemed VERY familiar to Shakedown Cruise. We chose to camp in a small tenting area just 50 yards before the shelter. The shelter itself, with it's rock wall and steps and the stainless steel spring-water trough, was memorable, one of the few remembered from 2008. Bear and Pack were already there with a new couple, Rain and Sprinkle, who began their flip-flop at Harper's Ferry on April 12th. Two Thru-hiker couples came into the shelter later in the afternoon, BootsAndBackpacks on Wordpress and IanandHannahsHike on blogspot. While we got an early start and had a good day, Cynthia's feet are again very sore, and she is very tired, mostly due to the blister growing larger on her toe.


28 Apr: Again we slept long and hard. Our sleep has been phenomenal on this trip. We awoke early in our secluded, off-trail tent site. Lovely that water was only 30 yards away, running from a spring onto and down the trail. Coffee and peanut butter breakfast were soon over, and Shakedown tried to pack quickly by stuffing the tent instead of folding it. By some miracle it stuffs into a smaller volume. Our hike started good, although we missed a landmark and passed the ?? trail unexpectedly. Immediately after that, we ran out of energy. For RevC, the problem was her blister; it had grown larger and more painful. The Band-aid was inadequate protection, and she was unwilling to lance it without a sterile needle or knife. Our hunt for a tent site dragged on and on, seemingly for miles, and we encountered an area thick with mountain laurel and covered by large rocks everywhere. We were surprised and relieved to come to ??, a greenish stream with one good tent site, although there was ample evidence that our chosen spot would fill with water in a heavy rain. It was only mid-afternoon, but we opted for the water and concluded hiking for the day. Soon after we had selected our pine-duff bed, another hiker appeared and recognized us. This was Sweet from a week ago, out to clear his head again. He hung his hammock nearby and commenced to read and snooze. Four more hikers arrived and set up camp across the stream before dark. This evening we discussed our hike. The rocks in Pennsylvania had been NO FUN, and it would only get worse; once we admitted that, it was easy and sensible to quit before the lousy condition of the trail caused broken bones or disaster.

27 Apr: Cynthia duct taped her blister. Ron wanted her to get an early start to see if we could hike f
arther in a day, but she waited for him a couple of times and was not very far down the trail when he caught up to her after packing camp for an hour. The explanation is that she feels much more secure if he is hiking ahead of her. Again we experienced several difficult rocky patches that slowed us down, and Cynthia's blister grew large during the day after the duct tape moved. We found s secluded, off-trail tent site near a series of springs that flowed onto the trail briefly before disappearing into the ground. Lovely that water was only 30 yards away.

26 Apr: We had been told that this would be an easy walk along the ridge without undue ups, downs, or rocks. That was NOT as true as we'd prefer. We were quite tired by the time we arrived and did not relish the thought of the 300 stone steps down to the spring. There was only one other hiker tenting there, so we decided to sleep inside the shelter for a change. It was a very pleasant night although a chill wind blew all night long. Cynthia had developed a tiny blister on her left toe, but her feet were otherwise without pain. Thank God.

25 Apr: Ron was up and blogging at 4:20 AM awaiting the usual call from his beloved. Cynthia exchanged her Solomon trail shoes for her older Vasque hiking boots, which turned out to be a good decision. Despite previous assurances, the staff at the Hilton Garden Inn was unable to mail our boxes, so their driver took us to the Post Office to mail our bounce boxes forward, one to the Lickdale Comfort Inn and the other to Port Clinton. We were all disappointed that Avon Lady Trail Angel Mary couldn't shuttle us to the Trail until 4 PM. Since we needed to get an earlier start (because our next re-supply is 7 days = 35 miles at Swatara Gap), we called upon the same cabby to drive us back to the Doyle for a beer and a meal and another gander at 2008 pictures (Six-Iron & Twelve-Iron, Loafy, Railroad King, Jukebox). After that we started hiking through town carrying our heavy packs close to 2 PM. Crossing the Clark's Ferry Bridge over the Susquehenna provided an interesting, bird's-eye view of the river's turbulence. Continuing across the RR tracks, we hit that memorable unrelentingly uphill grind, and RevC kept plugging along without rest until we leveled out a half mile later. The difficulty ratched up several notches on the rocky ascent that soon followed. It was a NASTY, ugly, ROCKY mess for a LONG mile to reach the ridgetop and procede along it. The views down to the river and bridges were certainly exceptional but hardly worth enduring more rocks. Once we passed the Susquehenna Trail blue blaze, we started seeing multitudes of day hikers out for a pleasant stroll, so we checked and discovered that the Susquehenna Trail bypasses the rocks, ascending via another route to the ridgetop. Again we were outraged that the powers dictating the official Appalachian Trail route (the ATC) subject their hikers to so much unnecessary danger. Just today (May 2nd) I learned of a hiker who recently fell on the rocks in New Jersey and broke her wrist. (On the other hand, Orange Crush is already in Dalton, Massachusetts.) The rest of the walk for an hour along the ridge was pure pleasure, with views of the Susquehenna upstream to the left and downstream to the right. The river makes a wide horseshoe turn through a gap in the mountains at Duncannon (part of which town were owned by a Colonial Swede Rambo descendant, Marcus Huling). After the river views were behind us, the farmlands right and left were still very pleasing, even after we descended from the ridge. The multitude of day hikers seemed bound for a power line cut that had excellent views or perhaps Table Rock. (Someone has tipped it off its pedestal.) We enjoyed brief conversation with a local couple who agreed that the official ATC routing over unnecessary rocks is DEFINITELY inappropriate. (Maybe that couple could date the landslide that buried the old, improved trail south of Duncannon.) The rocky path improved a bit towards the shelter, and we arrived there at a reasonable time but really quite tired. The new old boots worked marvelously; no blisters, no pain - what a joy !!

24 Apr: Morning in Harrisburg, PA at the Hilton Garden Inn, Ron updated TrailJournals.com (as Shakedown Cruise). With great anticipation and much joy Cynthia laundered. She decided to wear her old Vasque hiking boots (of the four choices in hand) to better cope with the notorious Pennsylvania rocks. After joyous anticipation, we were extremely disappointed that the Bass Pro Shop here does NOT have a restaurant; Ruby Tuesday was second best. Target furnished food for re-supply. (It would have been closer if Ron hadn't gotten lost.) Our bounce boxes are determined, one short, one long. After the freezing temperatures the last three nights, we are not quite ready to jettison winter gear.

typical exhausted hikers
Photo credits Vickey at the Doyle
again typical exhausted hiker, the General
view before the scary descent into Duncannon
We were thankful that the rain held off all day
Beautiful river views from Hawk Rock


23 Apr: Despite very low temperatures, Shakedown Cruise espied no frozen water. After biding adeau to departing ten-day section hikers Paul and Joni in the chill early morning air, we hiked down the 4 miles into Duncannon. Mee beloved WeeFee dictated that we WILL spend this night in a hotel because she will not tolerate being SO VERY cold two mornings in a row. Thank God that the temperatures should be improving soon. Cynthia was apprehensive much of the final mile by the fear of falling in the jumble of rock and the thought of bodily damage from such a fall, especially where the descent was precipitous. (This is what is meant by the term "exposure.") Once we were off the rock, her feet quickly became very painful as we walked on asphalt into town. Again, I am so proud of Cynthia that she was willing and able to endure such stress in order to "enjoy" the hike. The surprising part is that once she was seated at the Doyle (click here), the foot pain subsided instantly. The Doyle is an icon on the trail, and the food and beer are excellent and cheap. We enjoyed a hamburger with diet coke and grilled chicken with a 22-ounce Rolling Rock and a baked potato respectively, and Vickey did a marvelous job of cooking fat free for Ron. However, hiker accommodations at the Doyle are not quite up to Hilton Garden Inn standards, so Cynthia opted to hire a taxi to take us to a HGI in Harrisburg. Ron's reply, "Yes dear. "

22 Apr: This was a long day, 7.3 miles to the Cove Mountain Shelter, and the infamous Pennsylvania rocks and obvious trail erosion due to TOTAL absence of water bars causes a far rockier and more hazardous trail than necessary. (Apparently Pennsylvania trail maintainers like to display ALL their rocks to visitors.) The Mountain Club of Maryland (?!) maintains a very nice shelter and privy and must be cultivating the magnificent, Hydra-like growth of poison ivy atop a stump reaching out to the access trail. After pitching the tent and getting water from the lovely spring, Ron enjoyed an agreeable conversation with Paul and Joni. Cynthia was too cold and retreated to the tent early.

21 Apr: Ron is up before 2 AM in the suburban Carlisle, PA Hampton Inn blogging and anticipating a call from RevC when she is rested. Todays 6.6 mile hike to the Darlington Shelter again routed us over several stretches of nasty rock. Cynthia's feet held up well, perhaps because we started at a slower pace than previously.

WOW, new fleurs at lower elevations
Not quite a "wilderness experience,"
but lovely winter colors enhanced by a drizzly day
The infamous "green tunnel" draws nearer daily


20 Apr: Today Trevor was not feeling well, so Mary Lois took us back to our hike at 8:30 AM. Ron was up early typing and checking to see if the rain was supposed to end soon (YES, but they lied) or if we needed to swim. After waiting for the drizzle to end over a delightful breakfast at the Caffe 101 in Boiling Springs (the omelet was so good that Ron had two besides the blueberry pancakes), we hiked eight miles in five hours pausing infrequently to rest. As expected, the trail through the lowlands was wonderfully comfortable with only isolated patches of rockiness; however the 8 miles distance took its toll on Cynthia's feet (tendinitis, inflammation). Thunderstorms were forecast to arrive before dark (and they did). Cynthia phoned the Hampton Inn with high hopes, but there is no shuttle. Not to be deterred, she phoned a taxi for the ride to our Hampton Inn home for the night and again for a ride to dinner at the Middlesex Diner (which Shakedown Cruise remembered from 2008 - it is GOOD). After a delicious and filling dinner of haddock (Ron) and orange roughy (Cynthia), prepared to our no oil, no fat, no butter specifications, we retired very early to rest our weary, worn out feet. Ron did make a trip across the highway to the Love's truckstop for sufficient (inferior) resupply.

19 Apr, Sunday: Another lovely night's sleep on a comfortable mattress was followed by a quick breakfast and then church at the Tidings of Joy Mennonite Church in York. After lunch Ron enjoyed operating the clam shell post hole digger to deepen the compost pit a bit and to start a new hole. We thoroughly enjoyed our additional day of rest, worship, and conversation accented by lots of fine food - even hot air popped popcorn - an unusual treat for Ron on this diet.

 
Caught in the act - mending pants

18 Apr: York, PA. What a lovely day, and what a lovely night's sleep on a real, comfortable mattress, thanks to Pappa Bear and Mary Lois. Breakfast was fat-free blueberry pancakes (YUM). Today Ron (as Shakedown Cruise) joined Clayton and kids for a bicycle ride across the city to a green/ organic block party downtown. The weather was beautiful, as was the company. In the afternoon Ron borrowed the use of Mary Lois's sewing machine to mend the huge rip top to bottom across the seat of his hiking pants (by adding another layer of fabric to the underside). The girls were not so astonished since their brother Austin had sewn a dress for his fiancee. (Married last year; CONGRATULATIONS Austin, and best wishes for a long and happy marriage. OK, yes I can log on and finish this in the wee hours tomorrow [NO, I slept instead]. Stacking firewood in the warm sun was indeed pleasant fun.

17 April: Marvelous sleep, 53 degree temperature and we are well fed for a short four mile day into Boiling Springs where we were met by Trevor, a pre-med student and friend, who calls Ron Grandpa Shakedown. Our experience of the family's Care and Share Friday night gathering was awesome. The house and lawn was filled with church, school and neighbors. We will spend the weekend in his parents home in York, PA.

BoilingSprings is at lower elevation; spring is sprung !!
Wonderful contrasting colors, photo woefully inadequate
duckie in lake at Boiling Springs
Center Point Knob


16 April: Slept well, Foodified and Strengthened, we thought we were ready for the day; the hike was supposed to be easy, but it turned into a very tough rock scramble, twisted turns up and over, down and around, in very precarious positions. We were challenged! We set up our campsite a ways from the shelter because it was located too far off trail. After our delicious peanut butter sandwiches and trail mix, the tent is up and ready for occupancy. Orange Crush Just in time, it started to rain.

 
Mee beloved WeeFee showcasing spring blooms
Mt Holly Springs after breakfast

15 April: 7.5 miles, included a stop at a Deli for some delicious food followed by another two miles with a ride into Mt. Holly Springs to sleep in a motel. Zzzzzz

 
halfway marker on AT

14 April: Rain fell gently in the middle of the night. Awesome to awaken to the sounds of the stream with a lovely waterfall near our tent site and a comfortable temperature of 53 degrees. We had a great deal of energy today for the day's 6 mile journey that turned into a seven mile hike, proving we are getting younger next year. Thanks to our new friend Lone Bull who remembers us in every shelter log!!! Thanks to Sarah, new law school grad and Trillium, two courageous women hiking solo, for being inspirations. Thanks to Tortuga for a reminder of Robert Frost's poem: The woods are lovely, dark and deep,But I have promises to keep,And miles to go before I sleepAnd miles to go before I sleep.And miles to go before I sleep,And miles to go before I sleep.

13 April: 6.3 miles on a great stretch of the trail. We missed the mid-point rock because we were moving swiftly. Dear Trillium: we were saddened to read in the Tom's Run Shelter Log of the death of your grandmother. Our hearts hurt for you but rejoice in the inner awareness she is running the trail in and with you now and forever. Love from Ron and Cynthia

12 April: 7.4 miles to Birch Run Shelter

 
Quarry Run Shelter is one of the best (note hanging flowers)

11 Apr: 4:35 AM and Ron is again up and blogging. Forecast today and for the next week is marvelous, so we expect to hike past the midway point of the trail before Ron's next opportunity to blog. He will be recording daily blog entries on his Olympus digital voice recorder. (I wonder what it weighs; updating the TrailJournals.com gear list is in order ASAP.) Thanks to Rev. John Spangler and his lovely wife, Dr. Maria Erling, for transportation to the A.T. to resume hiking. Ron presented a huge surprise to Cynthia to fuel our hike (Dulce De Leche for RevC and Raspberry Sorbet for Shakedown). Fueling works; we enjoyed great energy, and the 2.5 miles to Quarry Gap Shelter just melted away easily despite ups and downs. As we approached a vivid yellow gate, Ron was greatly surprised to remember this scene and shelter from his 2008 hike. The trail was surrounded by lush and lovely mountain laurel, not yet in bloom. We chose privacy in the group campground, thinking that the VERY rocky path would deter most. Then we returned to the shelter and met the caretaker Jim, who insists on keeping the shelter neat, clean and tidy (including several lovely blooming hanging potted plants); he has been married 48 years to his childhood sweetheart, and she encourages him to get out of the house and into the woods. We met a darling three year old named Willa and a couple from Boston who impressed us with their ultralight gear made from cuben fiber. (The wife even sewed her own camp shoes that are feather-light.) Our privacy in the group campground was invaded by a pleasant couple and by Trillium, a delightful woman, mother of two teenagers, who hiked thru in 2014 and is now a weekend hiker completing a few sections she skipped. We had been reading Trillium's entries in the shelter logs and were amazed to meet her. Likewise, she had been reading Shakedown Cruise and RevC in the logs. In the morning, Dunkin Donuts delivered (photo)!!

10 Apr: Aleve helped Cynthia get a great nights sleep; her right hip has an aching muscle that is improving daily. At 4:45 Ron is polishing final perfection into this April blog post. We are sitting still yet another day due to forecast of thunderstorms - and again the forecasters missed; instead of thunderstorms, we had an hour of light rain from 2 PM to 3; hey, better safe than sorry; let's hope their forecasts for the next four sunny days are more accurate. Cynthia spent the day reading; Ron mending & blogging. We didn't even leave the hotel except for Ron's sunset (beautiful stripes of reds) trip to Subway (gormet meal). (The return across the wet field was fine; thanks to luck, not smarts.)

9 Apr: At 4:30 AM Ron resumed computer usage; Cynthia's sleep was disturbed in the early hours of the night by muscle soreness, but Aleve helped, and she slept soundly and awoke feeling rested. The forecast remains dreary and chilly, so we agreed to stay warm and dry in the hotel another day. As we hike, not every rainy day will have such a palatable option. Besides Ron has mending yet to do. Well and weller; We rode the Rabbit Transit into Gettysburg, and Cynthia again ordered a bowl of chili at the Pub & Restaurant; Ron bought two French baguettes at the Gettysburg Baking Company. Afterwards we walked briefly along Carlisle Street until the city's church bells started ringing in commemoration of Lee's surrender at Appomattox, which effectively ended the Civil War. Soon thereafter we met a delightful, interesting, and lovely woman, Rosalie, who with her sister were among the first to integrate Baltimore schools in 1955. Gettysburg College has a beautiful campus full of interesting old architecture (as is the town itself). We are now returned via RabbitTransit (our white-bearded driver is a hoot) to the hotel; only items left on agenda are a light dinner and warm soaking of feet in the hotel's hot tub. Wouldn't you know it, but the hot tub is kaput and can only maintain 80 degrees. Phui !! After the dismal forecast at 7 AM, the prognosticators revised by 10 AM, and no rain ever arrived until 7 PM - although it was certainly a cold day. Had we hiked, our chances of resupply in four days at Pine Grove Furnace would have been excellent; now resupply in Pine Grove Furnace is doubtful, so we will carry two additional days food. In the evening DNA and answering genealogical e-queries trumped mending.

Da Lovely WeeFee before Da lovely Tulip Tree
view from window of The Pub and Restaurant
Enlarge to read fine print


8 Apr: At 3:35 AM Shakedown Cruise (aka Ron Beatty) was awake and journaling on TrailJournals. Another zero is vindicated by the forecast and by Cynthia's sore feet and aching legs, although she reports the feet are much better. YES, we are getting stronger, and we believe that we are becoming "Younger Next Year." The city bus (RabbitTransit) picked us up close by the hotel for the scenic tour ending at the Pub & Restaurant at Lincoln Square. The food was delicious, especially the HUGE piece of contraband carrot cake. (Why did Cynthia not take a picture?) The Gettysburg Baking Company next door has several choices of yummy fat free breads (French & sourdough). We walked (without backpacks - oh joy) eight blocks (less than a mile - more joy) to the Seminary Ridge Museum to see pictures and documentary of the Battle of Gettysburg. Good God, what an awful tragedy; what terrible slaughter and suffering. After the museum closed at five PM, Ron could not locate his bus map, so Cynthia stepped back inside to ask the location of the nearest bus stop, and a lovely, pleasant woman offered to drive us back to the hotel. Imagine our astonishment that she knew about us because she is Dr. Maria Erling, Dr. Spangler's wife and Kim Eric's friend !! Afterwards Ron crossed the parking lot to the Giant grocery for Crazy Richard's peanut butter, but the chilly drizzle convinced him to delay the trip to Walmart (for MSM) until morning. Last but not least, we thoroughly enjoyed soaking our feet in the hot tub (although it was tepid rather than hot). Ron made full use of his time by mending another seam on his pants and by talking with a retired military man about the sorry state of the world.

7 Apr: It was a warm and rainy night. We were glad that our gear was dry as we packed in the morning. Ron made another LONG trip downhill to the spring for two more quarts of water. We were packed and hiking by 10:15. RevC is feeling stronger already and is far more optimistic about making a good long hike this year. There were two stretches of "gratuitous" rocks - indicators of Yankee elite-ism, provinciality, and "superiority." Coleman "sprinted" by us in the middle of the second set of rocks; he was also wondering "WHY? - are we in jeopardy up here on the rocks when there appears to be a perfectly fine tablelands slightly below us?" We arrived at U.S. 30 and were delighted to be picked up by trail angel and hosteller, Reckless. The log at the Trail of Hope hostel reported that NOBO #1, Windwacker, had come through earlier that very morning; Ron indulged in the proffered cherry pie while we awaited Kim-Eric's friend, Dr. John Spangler, VP of the Gettysburg Seminary and Director of Communications, who shuttled us to the Hilton Garden Inn east of Gettysburg. Thanks to all three men for making our trip to the hotel so simple and easy. Ron immediately walked to Wally World to purchase Aloe for his painfully sunburned back. (Oh what a relief it is - anyone out there remember that jingle?) The Dollar Tree provided Vitamin C, Glucosamine and Pennysticks Pretzels. We walked to Ruby Tuesday for mostly salad dinner, and Ron was delighted to hear from MIT buddy Bob W. We were asleep just before "hiker midnight," i.e. between dark and dark-thirty. We could have continued hiking today, but it was too likely that the forecast rain would have made the rocks were wet and slippery; we don't need to take that risk.


6 Apr: Good God, What a trauma we had to start this day !! We awoke refreshed; Shakedown had slept deeply between several restroom trips throughout the night. After coffee and protein powder, peanut butter bread with nuts & honey, Cynthia asked if she could help pack, and Ron suggested that she go up to the shelters to talk with the other interesting hikers and then on to the spring to get a quart of fresh, pure springwater. He continued cleaning up after breakfast, fastidiously packing air mattresses, dismantling and packing the tent, etc. Finally done packing, he walked from the group campground up to the shelters and was surprised to find them empty. Then he realized that the yelling he had attributed to kids at the parking lot/ picnic area was coming from the direction of the spring, and his heart nearly stopped upon realizing that it was probably Cynthia screaming ... and it was. He was soon greatly relieved to see her upright, but her legs were shaking uncontrollably as he hurried towards her. She had made it across the stream without difficulty, but panicked and froze straddling a torrent with one foot on one rock and the other foot on another rock, certain that if she moved forward or backward she would fall. Shakedown Cruise (to the rescue) crossed quickly to her and held her while she backed to the previous rock and back onto shore. We sat her down for ten minutes of shaking, sobbing relief before commencing to lecture (no, no, there was NO lecture, that was a joke). Once Cynthia had Ron's hand to hold, she crossed over those difficult rocks like a pro. Needless to say, 30 minutes of fear, screaming, and isometrics left her limp and exhausted. Back at the shelters and seated at a picnic table, she slumped forward, exhausted, with her head on the table. Still she insisted that we hike rather than zero. The caretaker, Curt's father, and his dog soon appeared to tend to the outhouse. He is also hard of hearing, but was a delightful conversationalist. He recommended that the blue blaze trail to Chimney Rocks was less demanding that the steep, "official," white-blazed trail. The blue blaze was also much prettier since it followed the stream for quite a distance. Cynthia soon grew much stronger as we hiked and enjoyed the scenery and the hike, all the while avering that she will never, ever cross another stream without Ron there to give a hand if needed. We could have stopped earlier, but RevC opted to continue to the Rocky Mountain Shelters as originally planned, 6.6 miles. It turned out to be a pleasant day after all. We set up tent inside the shelter (to keep mosquitos away) because rain is forecast for the night and tomorrow. A new NOBO hiker friend showed up there, Coleman.


5 Apr, Easter Sunday !!: And we did indeed resume hiking and thanking God for every safe step. We hope you also enjoyed a blessed Easter ! Cynthia was not feeling particularly well rested or strong, but as the hike continued, she gained strength and motivation so that we passed by the Antietam Shelter en route to Tumbling Run Shelter. One southbound hiker overnighting at Tumbling Run, "Shackleford," was resuming a thru-hike that had been curtailed by lime disease; another girl arrived later also resuming a 2012 SOBO thru-hike. Ron was grooming his selected campsite when the caretakers Curt, Tanya, and Mocha (the dog) arrived and recommended the group campground, "newly" built as an Eagle Scout project. Mocha loved the attentive petting, and Ron was very appreciative of the effort required to keep the usual trashy partiers out of the campground with such attractive shelters so close to the roadway and convenient parking. Curt highly recommended the local spring water (on the other side of the stream). We were abed early.

4 Apr: Happily ensconced in the Cobblestone Inn in Rouzerville, PA for the second night (with a third still reserved !), Ron is up again at

4 AM to wrestle with placement of pictures on this blog. Oh, yes, and he successfully mended another six inches of his cargo hiking pants. Breakfast at the Keystone was again wonderful. Dean & Benjamin & Ron went for a delightful walk in the woods. (That means they lost the trail & bushwhacked for a mile.) After discovering the absence of trail, they headed northeast for a while then west until finding a dirt road going south that eventually intersected the AT. At the highway, they enjoyed the Tree Trail, delightful although much neglected. Dinner with Jim and Joni at the Schmankerl Stube in Hagerstown was absolutely excellent. (Strange that the Hagerstown library looks so familiar to us genealogy addicts.)

3 Apr: Poor little SmoochSmooch hobbled the mile to the Keystone Family Restaurant this morning, and we were rewarded with a delicious breakfast of egg white veggie omelets. Cynthia had salad with hers; Ron had a stack of blueberry pancakes with syrup. As we returned to the Cobblestone, we passed by JP Nails, and they were able to immediately pedicure and manicure the WeeFee while Ron shopped for hiker foodstuffs in the adjoining Food Lion. The afternoon was spent by Ron mending his pants and by Cynthia pursuing new DNA results. Walmart sells a lightweight tent stake that is 2" longer and almost as light as an aluminum gutter spike, so we now have three additional tent spikes for loose soil. Ron spent the evening unsuccessfully wrestling with pictures on this blog.

Pen Mar State Park (thanks to Elizabeth for photo)
Mason-Dixon Line = Maryland is behind us now !!
Marvelous brook & bridge,
wonderfully open and peaceful brown woods

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


2 April: Today we hiked our final miles in Maryland, from Pen Mar State Park past the Mason-Dixon Line to Waynesboro, PA. Amusing that Elizabeth dropped us off in Maryland about 11 AM and picked us up three hours later in Pennsylvania to shuttle us to this Cobblestone Inn so that Ron could have a computer keyboard for his blogging. The wildlife sighting today was a tiny downy woodpecker high in the trees; his call was compelling, so Ron was able to sight him. Cynthia is one tired girl and deserves a sound sleep and a zero hiking day (or two); I wish we could find her a pedicure & manicure nearby.

1 April, 2015 - RevC: 7-mile exhausting day to Pen-Mar Park. Traversing the rocks and boulders steeply down the mountain from High Rock was tough. Cynthia rejoiced when Elizabeth, owner of the Nostalgic Dreams B&B, said she had space available for the night and she would pick us up in ten minutes. Her cozy home was a delight and so is she; she even did our laundry!!! Ron walked to the deli for turkey subs and fruit for dinner. Ron's turn to blog (as Shakedown Cruise): All is well - or maybe weller. Cynthia made it through several days and challenging rocks without falling again - even though her legs have been fatigued and her sleep disturbed. My legs typically feel fine in the morning and tire quickly on the first uphill. We are doing GREAT and are still enthused and still having "fun." The 0.2 mile loop to High Rock was again worth while for the expansive view, but the rock itself is grossly defaced by paint & graffiti; you begin to expect that where ever a road leads to scenery. Today a quail burst into flight ahead of us and glided through the trees into open air; four white tail deer fled uphill with tails flagging as they bounded. The plan called for no more than six miles a day, but the lure of a REAL BED was too great, so Cynthia carried on for one more mile despite a bit of wobble and stagger after the rocky, rocky descent.

 

Sunday, March 1, 2015

Hello March: Hiking the Appalachian Trail


Cynthia is JetBoil expert
gourmet breakfast prep; honey & raisins next
The Jet Boil makes a great cup of coffee with protein added and divided between us. Breakfast was a yummy peanut butter concoction of almonds, raisins, honey on rye bread from Smithsburg Market, freshly baked yesterday. It was colder than we thought; the diet coke left out froze instantly when Ron opened it at dawn; fortunately the day warmed quickly, and it soon thawed.

31 Mar, Tuesday. It is hard to keep track of the days. Up at seven AM after enjoying the brief iridescent red glow on the eastern horizon, Cynthia soon finished boiling water for protein mocha coffee with peanut butter breakfast and started hiking by eight while Ron packed up the tent. The two hour hike this morning to Wolfsville Road was warm and pleasant. Cynthia stopped several times for brief rests and excess clothing removal until Ron caught up to her. As soon as we reached Wolfsville Road and Ron stuck out his thumb in the time-honored hitch hiking signal, the very first passing pickup stopped and gave us a ride in the back (brrrh) directly to the post office in Smithsburg, Maryland. This was the first ever hitch-hiking experience for RevC (Cynthia's trail name). Before Ron could locate his ID buried in his pack, Cynthia had already forwarded our bounce box on to Duncannon, PA (for free). Smithsburg Market, Deli and Bakery offered re-supply, a great lunch, and a clean restroom. How good is that? Feeling fat and happy (how has Ron lost five pounds already!!?), we hiked back to Wolfsville Road, hitchhiking and hoping for a ride. Finally, a nice lady in an SUV (who delivered newspapers to ? her daughter? at the corner house where we stood) was charmed by Ron into driving us 1.7 miles to the trailhead. Rain started falling as we neared the Ensign Cowall Shelter, so we rested there for a couple of hours until it quit. As the rain lessened, Ron took the opportunity to do streambed maintenance on the trail & spring. Within twenty minutes of resuming our hike, the rain resumed accompanied by quite a strong wind just as we crossed the first open fields we've seen. It was a relief to reenter the woods after half an hour of wind and blowing rain, fortunately the rain was light and soon stopped. As night neared we began looking in earnest for a campsite and located a wonderfully level, flat, and soft spot surrounded by someone's private dumping grounds (mostly dead tires and wheels of all vintages). We camped off trail tonight.

30 Mar: We departed the Pine Knob Shelter saying warm good byes to our new friends, Iris and Sarafina (2 mountain goats), and Lone Bull (who taught Cynthia how to light the JetBoil this morning). We hiked past Pogo Campground, which looked like a lumber mill with newly sawn logs scattered hither and yon, having decided to get in a couple more miles to make a five mile day. The trail climbed to a ridgeline and stayed very, very rocky for perhaps an endless mile. The large boulders/ constant rocks covering the trail made progress very slow. As evening approached and weariness grew, Shakedown Cruise began to evaluate any potentially level location for rocks and brambles. Even on that rocky ridge, we finally found a level, flat, soft spot barely large enough for our tiny tent. Thankfully, the day had warmed and the wind had died, so setting up camp was quite pleasant. At six PM, group of four boys hiking towards the Ensign Cowell shelter surprised us with news it was only a couple of miles away. Hey! We could have made two more miles (but that would have exceeded our 6 mile limit). We enjoyed an excellent night of sleep, warm & toasty, sleep sorely needed after our restless nights in extreme cold.

panoramic view from top of Washington Monument

Washington Monument towers 52'
29 Mar: At 3:30 AM Ron aka Smooch aka Shakedown Cruise is updating TrailJournals. The peanut butter jar is emptied & cleaned, preparatory to transferring the messy strawberry jam (Ron likes clean fingers; clean fingers leave less food on everything, thereby attracting fewer varments to gnaw on everything). Cynthia is supposed to be sleeping warm & toasty in our room. Computer projects are now finished, time to resume mending. Jeff did indeed pick us up around 10 AM and return us to the trail. Many thanks Jeff. The morning is very chilly, and our packs once again loaded with food. The trail took us past the first memorial to George Washington built in 1827. Here we met super nice hiker, Lone Bull, a retired Health and Science teacher. After climbing the memorial and taking many photos we trekked on in chilly weather to Pine Knob Shelter (high of 49 degrees). Lone Bull had already arrived. Two lovely, charming college girls, Iris and Serafina, had built a fire. Ron enjoyed more conversation while Cynthia ducked under the down comforter inside the tent for an early night's sleep.

Scoutmaster Jeff in red, an awesome trail angel
28 Mar: SmoochSmooch's version: Oh, my, but the morning was chilly when Boy Scout troop 532 arrived. The forecast for this evening is even colder, 17 degrees with a real feel of 6. Smooch's version: Good grief, did it ever seem cold last night. We were barely warm enough in our tent & down blanket, and poor little SmoochSmooch suffered through the night with cold legs (all the while telling Smooch that she was OK). Our water bottles froze, although the layer of ice wasn't too thick to break. The young couple was already hiking out by the time we decided to brave the elements at 8 AM. It was frigid, so Shakedown first asked the other campers for the hot coffee water that they had offered last night. Many THANKS guys. Shakedown Cruise is realizing the need to keep a pen and paper handy to record names (or I guess he could learn to use the new digital voice recorder that he is carrying); the only name he remembers is Ron (imagine that). Cynthia "enjoyed" sitting bundled in the sleeping bag with warm protein/coffee drink and mittened hands. Shakedown Cruise made multiple trips to the tent, getting first food, the Body Glide for the feet, then the tent to pack. The night was so miserable that we were committed to finding a hotel by the time Boy Scout Troop 532 arrived and decided to stay. Their multiple scoutmasters were interesting and interested; they listened to our tales of trauma from the cold and volunteered that, "Jeff likes to hike; he'd probably hike back to his van and give you a ride to a hotel." And he did !! Not only that, but he also volunteered to come back in the morning and get us back to the trail where we exited. We are ever so very GRATEFUL; thank God for trail Angels !! Jeff is a premium example of the kindness of everyday people. We eagerly made the short 2.5 mile hike rejoicing at the thought of delicious sleep and another good meal at the South Mountain Inn. So here we are at a Hampton Inn in Hagerstown, and Smooch has already made a trip across the road to the neighboring Martin's grocery store to replace bear bag rope & buy pretzels. We called Jim & Joni first thing, and they picked us up at 6:30 to dine again at the Old South Mountain Inn. We all enjoyed another lovely evening. Life is Good.

27 Mar: We awoke surprisingly late, 9:30 AM, to a very chilly morning, and we took our time packing and enjoying coffee and diet coke at the office. Cynthia's knee was not an issue today. We enjoyed a much more level hike today, and our tired legs were indeed grateful. Imagine our surprise to see the hiker with dreadlocks again. His trail name is OneStep. I can hardly wait to see if he journaled his hike. He is also good friends with JoAnn and Rachel, the lovely and considerate staff at the campground. The two young hikers we saw at mid-day already had a campfire going at the Rocky Run Shelter, and another group of four cheerful guys arrived just as we did. It was nice to have pleasant weather (although chilly & windy - forecast high 49 degrees) and plenty of time to set up camp. Unfortunately all tent sites were a bit unlevel, so all night we fought against a steady slide towards the door of the tent. Lesson learned: next time feet are downhill. It was bitterly cold in the night and morning. Today we hiked 5.4 miles. This was our seventh consecutive five mile day, so according to plan, we are now allowed to hike six miles every other day.

a smaller tree house at Maple Tree Campground
26 Mar: Wow, did we ever sleep well !! And we were warm enough all night. The first day and a half went great. That is wonderfully encouraging. We were fed, packed, and hiking by 11:30 (no lie). Our legs were quite fatigued, all four of them, from the hike yesterday (that was one long uphill for our unpracticed legs), and Ron went for a quart of water to the spring 0.5 mile steeply DOWNhill this morning. Catastrophe hit midday when a large stick in the trail grabbed Cynthia's shoe lace and tripped her; the resulting fall scared the beJesus out of her (and me) and bruised her kneecap severely. Fortunately she was able to continue hiking, and by 3 PM we arrived at the Maple Tree Campground with reservations for the Bonsai treehouse. JoAnn and Rachel, staff persons are superb. Lovely place. After registering and asking about a ride to town for re-supply, a young couple of angels, Sarah and George, offered us a ride to town !! We both showered (quite a treat after two days hiking), and then George and Sarah drove us to the Weis market in town and then to the Old South Mountain Inn, where we all enjoyed a fabulous dinner.
RevC's version: The first day and a half went great. At noon, Cynthia's shoe lace caught a tree branch capaulting her into a fall onto a rock. Her knee is badly swollen but it seems to be working. We arrived at the Maple Tree Campground with accommodations in the Bonsai treehouse. JoAnn and Rachel, staff persons, are superb. Lovely place. JoAnn communicated our need to resupply to Sarah and George, a marvelous young couple who had plans to go into town. They took us to Weis Markets, and in return, we treated them to a very fine dinner at the Old South Mountain Inn, a fine dining restaurant with outstanding cuisine. Cynthia enjoyed the opportunity to eat a filet. The rain was heavy at times throughout the night; we were indeed happy to be enclosed. Pictures another day! Today we hiked 3.7 miles on the Trail and 0.4 miles on road to Maple Tree Campground.

Setting up tent in the "wild"
25 Mar: Volume 6 is going into Dropbox right this minute. Cynthia says, "It has been a nightmare !!!" The bounce boxes are packed to go to the post office now, we have been well fed, another guest at the Jackson Rose B & B (the wife & son of a section hiker) has graciously offered us a shuttle to the Trail. After four days of five-mile hikes with packs we are ready to leave despite the rain and chill. We arrived without problem at the Ed Garvey Shelter where the hiker was killed by a falling "widowmaker" tree ten days ago. Sad. Very sad. We set up tent by a lovely sunset. Peanut butter never tasted so good. As expected, there was a brief note in the shelter log from Beavis. The night was very cold, colder than anticipated; we (Cynthia) slept in our MontBell downs.

24 Mar: We hiked without packs today, south across the bridge and up the hill to the road. Returned to town for lunch at the Town Inn, then up that long hill to the Jackson Rose. This time that long hill was insignificant, a wonderful and surprising change. We are well satisfied with our prepatory hikes. Ron is now a day late finishing Volume 6. Cynthia dictates that Vol. 6 MUST be "complete" before we can commence hiking. Our preparatory hikes have gone well, no sign of excessive foot pain, back pain, knee pain, etc.

23 Mar: Again Ron arose at 5:30 AM to resume finishing touches to Volume 6 but left that to record receipts and product information into his spreadsheet. Today's plan is to hike to the Harpers Ferry Outfitters store after breakfast to see if Ron can be re-shod (they have a farrier on staff), then to Wally World for a digital voice recorder, MSM (MethylSulfonylMethane), Glucerna, etc after finishing our mandatory five miles. Today provided our first encounter with the magic and mystery of the trail. RevC insisted that we visit the Harpers Ferry Outfitters to find new hiking footwear for Shakedown Cruise. Imagine his surprise when the Cootie Queen (yup the owner has a trailname; real names Laura & Ron) produced a pair of GoLite Mountain sneakers that fit perfectly. As we lingered purchasing a few more items, a scruffy looking hiker came in wearing a large pack which he never took off; he was wearing only long shorts and a fleece despite the chilly, windy day. His mission was to find a compression bandage for his knee and then Advil. Ron asked where he was going and received a monosylabic reply, "Maine." Since Smooch and SmoochSmooch enjoy distributing trail magic, Ron told the owner to put those purchases on our bill. In the ensuing exchanges of "You don't need to" and "It is no problem; it is trail magic," the hiker suddenly asked "Are you Ron Beatty?" Reply "yes" and an immediate "Shakedown Cruise, so good to see you." This was Bevis, who had to exit the trail in 2008 with mersa. We offered him dinner at the Anvil (which unfortunately is closed on Mondays). He accepted, but by the time we left the outfitter (and realized that the restaurant was closed), Bevis had changed his mind - 6 miles to the shelter for the night. We hiked our mandatory five miles; little SmoochSmooch carried a lightened pack, but we've now done three of our 7 consecutive days limited to five miles. We hustled back to the Jackson Rose after a salad & chicken at one of the few eateries open on Monday, just in time for Ron to catch the shuttle to Wally World where he was able to purchase a digital voice recorder, MSM (MethylSulfonylMethane), Glucerna bars, some cord, and other final purchases prewpatory to hiking tomorrow.

22 Mar, Sunday: In Harper's Ferry, West (byGod) Virginia, Ron was up at 5 AM this morning in our very pleasant room at the Jackson Rose B&B, paging through Volume 6. Good God (literally, we are happy to be alive), will he ever finish this endless pursuit of editorial perfection? Sigh. More problems surfacing, more Microsoft Word idiocies to correct, and one impossible situation discovered this morning. Thank God our feet and backs and knees seem to have tolerated yesterday's hike with fully loaded packs. We realized that fully three miles of that was on concrete sidewalks through town - NOT smart. Today we will pick up the trail behind the Conservancy to limit concrete trauma. Breakfast was wonderfully tasty; Phil and Gail do marvelous work. They provided home-made fat-free brown bread to accompany the veggie omelets, fruit, and that essential fluid, coffee. Another couple of couples from Ohio were greatly fun conversationalists; we were thoroughly entertained by Rick, Chris, Mark and "Hey You". Today's five mile hike gave us great optimism; no pain, no difficulties. The hike across the bridge and onto the bluffs afforded us lovely views of the rapids in the river. On the return, as the sun was dropping, the ivy climbing one tree was glistening marvelously in the sunlight. Also encouraging was the fact that we started hiking late, 3 PAM, and still finished five miles, including decent climbs up the bluffs, well before dark. This time we enjoyed trout at the Anvil; since they are closed tomorrow, we departed with dinner (chicken & salads for tomorrow) to go.

21 Mar: Many, many Thank Yous' to Jim and Joni for their marvelous hospitality, companionship, cooking, and for taking us to Harper's Ferry this morning. The snow-covered Maryland landscape was wonderfully, beautifully surreal (even though ALL of the locals are really, really tired of it). Jim spotted some ice sculptures on the shaded bluffs beside the river as we neared West Virginia. We are ensconced at the very lovely Jackson Rose B&B, staying in Stonewall Jackson's bedroom. (https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=826316837434037&set=a.729225220476533.1073741827.100001671863529&type=1) After a light salad lunch, we started hiking about noon in 44 degree temperature wearing several light layers, but within thirty minutes one of us did a lot of stripping.(Yay! More, more) We had our pictures taken at the ATC for their scrapbook; we are "flip-floppers" numbers 4 and 5 hiking Northbound (NOBO) from Harper's Ferry. We hiked a little over five miles on the AT along the C&O Canal wearing our packs. The last mile uphill from downtown must have been a fifty thousand foot elevation gain (Haha!!). The bounce box will carry a whole lot more of our stuff; we now begin to fully understand the disadvantage of carrying a few extra ounces here and another few there. Dinner (salmon) this evening was at the nearby Anvil Restaurant.

Jim's pond was frozen yesterday
safety first shoveling
My angelic weefee's snow angel for Zoe
20 Mar: We awoke to a winter wonderland. Ron shoveled snow to Jims car twice. Cynthia made a snow angel for her grandchildren with a note that getting down and up again wasn't quite what she remembered. Jim and Joni came home early to take us to Westminster, MD for dinner (on Jim's dime, THANKS Jim) at Paradiso Ristaurante with their delightful friends of many years, Helen and Michael.

19 Mar:

shock cords make it easy
Tent sans rain fly
who reads these?
You can see how heavy & cumbersome the tent is.
Not so very huge, but it weighs only one and a half pounds.
18 Mar: Ron awakened way too early and finally completed Vol. 6 !! After riding the motorcycle to IHOP Ron realized he had no money!!! He left Cynthia to fend for herself amongst mountains of pancakes and rode back to Jim's to retrieve his credit card. We shopped at Walmart. Now to put up a tent.

17 Mar: Ron again awakened early to resume final preparations to abandon the James Lea book for the duration of our full 3 seasons hike of the Appalachian Trail; Success !! all notations, reminders and status fully completed by 7 AM. After breakfast with Cynthia at IHOP in Mt. Airy, the intrepid couple of us packed nearly all our gear and discovered with dismay that the packs weighed 27 and 24 pounds respectively - each pack fully 7 pounds overweight !! Cynthia was heart broken, but Ron was more pragmatic, and we looked to the Thru-Hiker's Companion for consolation. Therein we discovered that we should be able to re-supply after a couple of days, so needed only to carry food for three days instead of a full five days, and that there were a couple of places to get water on every day for the first five, meaning that we need to carry only about a quart of water apiece for several days. Whew !! Crisis averted, the Smooches unceremoniously, indiscriminately dumped five pounds from each pack and walked the quarter mile from Jim's doorway to the road. All is well, we just need to carry no food and our weight will be fine - which is to say we are now engaged in repacking. Jim and Joni joined us for another stellar evening dining at Mt.Airy Tavern celebrating St. Patrick's Day.

16 March, Monday: Lunch at Mt. Airy Tavern with Tom Mc and Charley from Olney was the BEST! What a great duo. Charley was a WWII gunner and holds the patent for pantyhose. He is a delightful 96year old who charmed us completely. One could not meet a nicer guy than Tom who is Charley's son's best friend since they were five years old. And then we shopped for food to pack in our backpacks.

15 March, Sun: a glorious day for riding to Mt. Airy, MD--departing at 11:00 AM we arrived at Jims house by 5:30 PM having had a great lunch at Ruby Tuesday's in Richmond, VA. Surprise! Snow is on the ground with ice in the lake.

14 March, Sat: Ron rode into the Archives between raindrops returning just in time to meet with Cynthia's Lea cousins from the Raleigh area. We were very impressed with their research projects and enjoyed their company mightily! The evening was spent packing and Getting Younger Next Year.

13 March, Fri: Ron arose early to work on various projects. Cynthia slept until 8:30. The bus does not run during mid-day so we took the cab once again. Despite the extra sleep Cynthia has trouble keeping her eyes open after 2PM - but we stayed the course until the doors slammed shut behind us at 5:30 PM with hugs to say good-bye to Gay. We thoroughly enjoy the effervescent Gay -- the delightful, bubbly Keeper of the Archives. We will miss her awesome smile. Our 305 bus was late, but we were ultimately picked up for the thirty minute ride to the hotel. Because of light mist we took the shuttle to Ruby Tues'day's for dinner and walked home dry just in time for Ron to get Younger Next Year by sweating buckets. Cynthia's tendonitis is greatly improved by staying OFF the treadmill.

12 March, Thurs: Michael J. Joined us for a most delightful lunch to discuss his YDNA Lea links. Other Lea cousins in the neighborhood are going to join us on Sat afternoon for conversation and dinner. Michael drove us to the archives where we spent the day taking photos of microfilmed land surveys. The surveys now platted are very fascinating to see in real time on Google Earth. The temperature in the Archives feels like zero. It is very chilly. Fortunately, our walk to the bus stop is perfect timing for catching the 305 to the hotel. From there we relied on the hotel shuttle for a ride to Ruby Tuesday's for dinner but opted to walk back to Target and then the hotel.

11 March, Wed: rain is forecast for this afternoon about the time the Archives closes, the hotel is uncertain about the bus routes, so we opted to spend $25.00 to take a cab to the Archives today. Our time is being well spent with warrants and deeds on microfilm for the BANKSTON lands in Montgomery County, NC surrounded by Rogers land. The importance of the property location is important. Our new friend, a Rogers descendant, has software that he will use to map the BANKSTON property in proximity to the Leas for Cynthia's book. The deeds show up in real time on Google Earth, too. We will likely be riding to MD this weekend if it does not rain.

10 March, Tues: Cynthia's cousin in-law met us for breakfast, drove us to the Archives for the day, picked us up with his wife for dinner at the 42nd Street Oyster Bar and Seafood Restaurant. She had fun reminiscing with him. We had a nice email from friends we stayed with in southern Norway. Lene is a Rosemaling artist who is making unique gifts for Cynthia's 7 granddaughters. Zoe... The 14 year old is in Paris with her talented designer mom for fashion week.

9 March, Departing Columbia, SC for Raleigh. Lovely day, warm and pleasant ride. Lunch at Ruby Tuesday's en route and upon arrival.

8 March, Columbia, Sc visit with many good friends!!!

7 March, Columbus, GA to Macon GA for breakfast with Danielle and onto Columbia, SC for great dinner with our SC friends at Ruby Tuesdays.

6 Mar: Forecast for Point Clear overnight low was in the 20s. Stay posted; we'll tell you later today (Gosh is it midnight already? No wonder Cynthia is already soundly asleep. Goodnight Y'all. Omg. It was one bugger of a cold ride from Point Clear to Columbus, GA. P.S. To me beloved weefee: I love you (and get points for first I love you of March 6th - we guys go nuts over points).

5 Mar: Brrrh and Brrrh. Ron has been marveling at the red buds and lime-green roadside grasses and had planned to post reassurance to Y'all up north that SPRING IS HERE !! HA !! Spring came, winter saw, and winter conquered. Brrrh. The temperature dropped all day long from a midnight high of 58 degrees, and the wind rattled the windows all day long. Fortunately we sat the day out at the Grand Hotel at Point Clear, Alabama on Mobile Bay and thoroughly, completely enjoyed being indoors and out of the weather; hey, we were even able to walk across to the main building for dinner by using the second floor walkway. Lest you think of us as wimps, we did sally forth for a refreshing hour's walk along the bayside boardwalk. (No, we didn't see any others out walking.) Ron got in his 45 minutes on the elliptical machine although his sweat rate indicates that his heart rate did not make him any Younger Next Year. We were amazed by the Google map placement of the property of James Lea Country Line; many, many thanks to newfound genealogical junkie Tom. This evening the chef made baked sweet potato fries for us besides the redfish and veggies and dinner rolls.

4 Mar: Awake early and breakfasted early, we departed the hotel by ten-thirty. We were comfortable and not a bit cold at first, but soon the temperature climbed to an uncomfortably warm 86 degrees, where it stood when we stopped for lunch at Don's Seafood in Covington, Louisiana. We were caught between a rock and a warm place. If we took off a layer of clothing, we would be too cool, so we opted to be a bit overwarm, and consequently we sweated a bit for a bit. After stopping without sightseeing at the John C. Stennis NASA center on the Mississippi state line, we turned south onto scenic U.S. 90 to follow the stunningly beautiful white sand beaches of the southern gulf coast to Mobile Bay. It was windy and a cool 70 degrees along the Gulf Coast, and several bridges rose nearly into the sun before cresting just shy of that globe and precipitously descending back towards land and water; the views are amazing on a motorcycle. Those bridges are intimidating on a calm day; adrenaline surges on windy days. Our trip was accented by riding through the I-10 tunnel in Mobile and through a pea-soup fog past the ghostly battleship Alabama and across the bridges spanning Mobile Bay. We had an absolutely gorgeous and dry day except for ten seconds of rain once and that pea-soup fog. Tomorrow's forecast calls for extensive rain. We might stay a day or two here at the Grand Hotel in Point Clear, AL. Their chefs feed us really really well - even when restricted by our no fat, no oil, no butter, no cheese diet. Salad, flounder, veggies, and even fat free dinner rolls made especially for us since Cynthia let the chef's know to expect us before we left Don's Seafood in Covington.

3 Mar: Arise and Shine! We made one last stop at the storage unit, returned the rental car, ate a delicious breakfast at the Toasted Yolk, and rode east out of town on TX highway 105 about 11 AM. The next stage of the trip is I-10 eastwards to Baton Rouge, Louisiana. Me diabetic weefee Cynthia needs to eat every five hours (or more frequently), so we stopped at Don's Seafood in Lafayette, Louisiana for a marvelous meal. The day was warm with sunshine breaking through to a lovely day with only one mishap. Cynthia left her cell phone in the women's restroom at the Chevron station in Beaumont, TX, but thank the good Lord, ten minutes later it was still exactly where she had set it down. This happened two years ago in southern Texas with far less satisfactory results - but that time we were unaware of the loss for an entire hour, and we did not immediately return to look for the misplaced phone. We enjoyed dinner number two with genealogy cousin Pat at our hotel, the Hilton Garden Inn in Baton Rouge. Our itinerary calls for the next certain stop in Columbia, SC to visit friends, then in Raleigh, NC to photograph more James Lea documents until warm weather and clear roads allow us to ride safely to Mt. Airy, Maryland where we will visit Jim & Joni until they can drop us off on the Appalachian Trail in Harper's Ferry, West (by God), Virginia.

Cynthia is ready to roll!
Thanks to dear friend Jane B. for photo...!
2 Mar: Monday Morning Madhouse Packing because our Montgomery forecast changed from warm and rainy to warm and cloudy - meaning it is motorcycle riding weather !! We have a five hour ride ahead of us yet today, and we (Ron) are not yet packed; we (Ron) packed industriously until 3:00 PM when we (Ron) succumbed to exhaustion. The motorcycle bags are packed and two months accumulation of stuff went into the storage unit, but Ron is too tired; besides we are loathe to begin our ride in evening rush hour traffic. Ron's annual box of mail arrived from Clarence in Shawnee Mission late this afternoon with the requisite 2014 tax information, financial statements, and Christmas mail. Tax stuff is stuffed into an envelope for the accountant, Christmas mail goes with us on the road, and financial statements will have to wait to be reconciled until next January. We WILL depart tomorrow morning and attempt to stay ahead of the forecast miseries. Remember how Ron was too exhausted to ride? Cynthia drove silly Ron to the fitness center where he worked out aerobics and strength training for an hour and then walked home.

1 Mar, Sunday: Our AT hike approaches with good hiking weather as forecast by Accuweather for Harper's Ferry commencing March 12th. Between now and then the weather en route is pretty icey dicey. Jim S. forewarned us that ice on the roadways is 1/4" thick in Maryland. We had a marvelously good day, a great worship service at Grace Lutheran Church (Rev. Hinkhouse is inspiring) followed by brunch at the Yacht Club celebrating Steven's birthday with Jon and Barbara joining the "party." Samantha was unable to make it at the last moment.