AT Thru-Hiker NB - March 2008

2 April, Wednesday, 3 AM Hot Springs, NC: dropped "Trail Magic" (a Styrofoam cooler with diet sodas, water, grapes, peanut butter, etc., ) for hikers near Fire Tower; on to Asheville Regional Airport to wait for return flight. Ron waited for a return shuttle back to Hot Springs with hot coffee provided by a kind clerk at the Holiday Inn.

By 8:30 AM Ron was hiking the AT from Hot Springs, well fed, refreshed and re-energized. By noon, he had hiked five miles to the Fire Tower, enjoyed drinking his favorite diet cherry soda we had packed in the Trail Magic cooler at 3 AM!. He thought this was very funny!

Photo upper left: Ron against view of French Broad River: Hot Springs, NC. Below: Curtis' daughters playing with Barbie Dolls in a very cold creek at Standing Bear Hostel.

1 April, Tuesday: Hot Springs, NC - Why does he always choose hikes that go straight up the mountain?? Despite the Uphills - each day's hike was better than the last; and the five hour hike up Pump Gap Trail, then following the AT, provided some of the most magnificent views of the French Broad River and its rapids. Ron was really not tempted to jump from Lover’s Leap – but came up with a good idea for a tee shirt: “I survived Lover’s Leap” Oops! Now someone else might market that shirt. Weather was warm - in the seventies (R&R!

31 March, Monday: NW of Hot Springs, NC - Incredible hike about five hours on Paint Mountain Trail # 7 crossing to # 154. Breathtaking views - well worth the climb UPHILL. A few drops of rain - overcast skies - nice day.

30 March, Sunday: Hiked to Max Patch (TN)– spectacular views. You guessed it: UPHILL about five hours. Curtis, owner of Standing Bear Hostel, offered the chicken coop quarters for the evening– but considering the prospect of rain, a missing wall – and cleaning out chicken pooh - turned it down. Weather was nice all day! Delicious meals at the Mountain Magnolia Inn; owners Pete and Karen are exceptionally nice.

29 March, Saturday: Columbia, SC - Ron hiked with Dick Richards in the AM - Taxes done: $240.00 – check written – ready to roll back to hike AT again despite gloomy weather forecast for next three days.

27 March, Thursday: Charlotte, NC and on to Columbia, SC to do taxes and pay bills.

26 March, Wednesday: Standing Bear Hostel, TN - We did two miles of trail maintenance - Ron cut tree limbs with a worn out saw blade, painted white AT blazes on guardrail. Enjoyed the campfire camaraderie and owner, Curtis. Great food at Fox and Hounds in nearby Newport, NC - special hostess named Carol - wonderful ambiance.

Matthew with a Sweet Smile

Fire Tower View, Hot Springs, NC

25 March, Tuesday: We enjoyed a hearty early breakfast at Elmer’s with some other thru-hikers. Joined more hikers at the diner for yet a second breakfast (guess what Ron ate). words cannot capture the camaraderie & contagious euphoria that envelopes hikers as they encountered one another – some having shared several weeks hiking, others simply a few hours.

Hiked UPHILL to the Fire Tower near Hot Springs for a 360 degree awesome view - accompanied by Matthew – a fine young fellow with a charming smile.

24 March, midnight: Where is Ron now?????????  She drove right past me, frantic because she had no cell phone service, and there he was - right where he said he would be standing... under a street light on main street.

24 March, Monday, AT 2008: Elmer's Sunnybank Inn at Hot Springs, NC, mile 270.7

The last two days have proved very interesting as I remembered scenes from last year's shakedown cruise. It is amazing that I covered the 33 miles from Standing Bear Farm Hostel to Hot Springs between 2pm Saturday and 7pm Sunday - all because Squire "stood me up" at Max Patch.
This morning I picked up the breakfast tab for the table of hikers at the Smoky Mountain Diner. It is one great place to eat - good food for very reasonable prices. I started with the veggie omelet & coffee, continued with more coffee and two pancakes w/ two scoops of vanilla ice cream & strawberries (The owner declared that the price of that was "on her" !! - THANKS. It was delicious.), and finished by consuming more coffee with the leftovers from Spruce and Halfbrew. I may never need to eat again.

23 March: 23 miles today - surprised me !
After deciding at 2:30 am that I should sleep more, I awoke at 6:30, packed, and started hiking in the darkness towards Max Patch. The overcast precluded a pretty sunrise, but I enjoyed meditating about the surprise of my fellow hikers if I could show up in their camp shortly before sunrise. However, the surprise was mine when I "summited" Max Patch to discover that I knew none of the campers there. In the forest just beyond the summit, Memphis Tim informed me that everyone had pushed ahead to the Roaring Forks Shelter because the winds and cold on Max Patch were too severe. THEY MISSED AN AMAZINGLY SCENIC VIEW of frosted trees on every neighboring mountain and up to 1/4" of frost on all the vegetation on Max Patch. At Roaring Forks, Toad informed me that "everyone else" had just left 2 minutes earlier, so I left a brief note in the shelter log and moved on, hoping to catch Squire during his lunch break although he hikes much faster downhill than I do. The terrain was relatively easy, so I made good progress without rushing myself until becoming hungry towards 10am. Last year I learned that I need to eat lots and often while hiking in order to keep my energy up since it doesn't recover well if I wait to eat after tiring. "Start" caught up to me there and we hiked together with enjoyable conversation most of the afternoon. The next shelter is close to a newly stripped "bald" and I remembered spending the night there and being disappointed with the midnight view of a cloudy sky from that bald last year. The spring was a puddle last year and Start reported it to be an unacceptable puddle this year too. After hiking without much respite most of the day, the last climb before the next shelter became drudgery, so I stopped to enjoy a "nap" - Napping Ron might be a good trailname for me. I ate two peanut butter sandwiches while mulling over the impossibility of arriving in town with almost three days of food leftover. After a bit of sunshine, clouds blocked much of the heat and the wind was chill, so I covered up a bit after Riley and Joshua and Memphis Tim passed by. By then I had dozed a minute and rested adequately, so packed and started hiking with renewed vigor. I caught up to Memphis as he prepared to leave the the final shelter deserted and decided to continue with him to join the group in town - 33 miles and a good night's sleep in 28 hours. The "run" into town was perplexing in that we went up and up and up in order to drop 1000 feet of elevation from the shelter to town. As usual, I started making cell phone calls while approaching a town where the phone could be recharged. Elmer's Sunnybank Inn was full and dinner smelled too incredibly delicious to stand, but after a good pizza at the Main Street Cafe, Spruce and Halfbrew decided to join Memphis Tim at the resort cabin, so I was enabled to share a room at the Inn with Squire. The biggest surprise is that Matthew is here !! That awesomely fast hiker is apparently love struck by Elmer, the town, or the lovely staff that Elmer employs. Matthew has been here "working for room" since Friday. What a treat to see so many familiar and happy hiker faces. What a delightfully supportive town full of nice, pleasant people. After a couple of beers with Josh, Riley, and Start, I slept well, especially as my room is unheated.


22 March. Everyone stopped at Standing Bear, and I couldn't bring myself to leave until all other outgoing hikers had gone about 3 pm. The day of socializing was just so much fun and Curtis is an enjoyable eccentric. It was quality time, well spent. The day started early with inadequate cell phone signal (the call to my sister was dropped five times before we finally gave up). Then Curtis refused to consider a breakfast run into "town" and even refused a 6-pack bribe attempt. Fortunately Curtis sells eggs and Catfish is a willing and talented cook. My omelet was wonderful - Thanks Catfish. Squire and Spruce were off early around 10am (really late for them). Drew & Wendy also left sorta early. Eventually Joshua and Riley and halfbrew came in after a night on Mt. Cammeron. They reported that it was a gorgeous night there with wonderful stars - among the best sights so far. Even they left before


21 March, AT 2008: Standing Bear Hostel at Interstate 40, Tennessee and North Carolina borders. $1 per 15 minutes, so this will be brief.
Lotsa fun so far and very nice people for hiking companions. I've made better time than expected and have just cleared the Great Smoky Mountains National Park and Interstate 40. My knee is getting better and better. My pants are loose. My legs still get far too tired - I require a mid-day nap. Longest day so far was 18 miles. Worst weather is a tie between driving winds and 25 degree temperatures with light snow AND driving winds with light rain on the Smoky Mountain ridgetops. Best view a few days ago was from Rocky Top - magnificent 360 degree with mountains on all sides. Close second was the trees enshrouded with snow & ice a couple of days ago after a nice warm night in Peck's Shelter. My gloves have proved inadequate twice, so I just bought a new pair - with the hope that the coldest weather is behind me.
Now I have to see about establishing a blog at trailjournals.com

6 March, AT 2008: Neelys Gap & Walasi Yi Center Outfitters
Whew, it has been a pleasurable 30 miles so far. Thanks to Greg for the ride to Amicholola State Park. Apologies for not being ready early Sunday morning - until 1:30 pm. By coincidence, there was a Trail Days exposition there that weekend; I missed an opportunity to pick up good gear cheap.
Since we arrived late before dark, I hiked only 2.4 miles, mostly in the dark - a fittingly easy first day.

On March 3rd, I hiked about 14 miles up the Approach Trail to Springer mountain (6.4 miles) and on to the shelter 7.8 miles further on. At the shelter midway I met Cannibal and Bananas, both solo hikers. There were fun and Cannibal is another hammock swinger who seems very knowledgeable about gear. I hope to see them both later on. The next shelter was crowded but everyone was tired, so there was little conversation. I pitched my hammock and the rain started just before dawn.


March 4th, I hung tight until after noon, figuring that hiking in the rain is no fun. When I was eating breakfast at noon, Cannibal & Bananas came in soaked and mildly miserable from the weather, while also pleased to have accomplished another day of hiking. I left then and covered the same 7.8 miles to the next shelter as had the miriad of other hikers who had endured hiking in pouring rain and whipping wind. I felt well justified in my "slack" day.


March 5th I set out reasonably early after eating my final supply of brewers yeast supplements with breakfast and just kept on truckin' until I reached Neelys Gap and the Walasi Yi Center, great people and good advice and good gear smack on the trail. (http://www.mountaincrossings.com/) Oh, I cannot forget to mention the wonderful vistas off Blood Mountain. WOW !! This enternet machine is situated at the window overlooking a great view down the valley. Wonderful. Now I need to go buy "lots" of new gear: Superfeet, Bridgedale endurance trekker socks, Etowah rain kilt, sleeping bag liner, ULA over mitts, and two pints of Ben & Jerrys (Chunky Monkey & Chubby Hubby). Very nice people. I want to remember Adam & Pirate is quite a character.

1 Mar 2008: Greg Gowdy generously offered to drive me from Columbia, SC to the trailhead at Springer Mountain in Apachola State Park north of Atlanta. Weather has been mild this winter, but there has been enough rain that all the usual water sources are providing that vital fluid. There is no snow on the Great Smoky Mountains at this moment. I was surprised with a Hennesy Hammock for a Christmas gift. My new down sleeping bag from GoLite weighs only 1 lb 3 oz and is supposed to keep me "warm" down to 20 degrees. Goodnight. I have a ton of things to do before dawn, so I'm going to "sleep" for a few hours now. I've learned how to take pictures with my cell phone, so there should be some of those on my Picasa site before too long. Last years experiences provided convincing education about the merits of traveling light. Maybe the new digital recorder will survive with a "running" commentary.

hilton head, survived alligators

Hi Y'all,

Nope, not on the Edisto anymore. Cousin surely surprised me with that one. I thought we were hunting ancestors, not alligators. Turns out this was a warm winter spot to see what our ancestors went through while canoeing lazy rivers & streams. More fodder for her historical fictions.
It is a challenge to avoid all the trees and snags, even on a lazy river flowing 3-4 mph. The current WILL push us where it please.
Now we are in Hilton Head preparing for dinner with cousin Sharon. It will be awesome fun to see these two effervescent cousins meeting each other for the first time.

back in Columbia, South Carolina

25 Sep 2007, Tuesday. At 4 am I stood naked and panic-stricken on the balcony of the motel 40 feet from the room as the car horn sounded repeatedly following my attempt to lock the car with the remote. By 7 pm I was in Columbia enjoying another Gigantic Titanic Banana Split at Sandy's Famous Hot Dogs. This may be the last Where Is Ron Now post for a while as I intend to stay here until completing the other four volumes of the Rambo Family Tree. (Yes, the galley proofs arrived and are nearly perfect, but will have to go back for correction.)

Successful "shakedown cruise"

16 Sep, Sunday: Cousin Cynthia and I are preparing to go hiking somewhere in the Shenandoah National Park today. She is in Staunton for five days to research a great grandfather.

13 Sep 2007, Thursday: Today I hiked into Daleville, VA and had breakfast at Mill Mountain. They also serve ice cream and turned my 4-scoop plate order into a banana split. Wowie, zowie. The hike was a complete success and I'm elated and pumped for next years through-hike.

7 Sept at the Courthouse Cafe in Pearisburg, Virginia

7 September, Friday: I sat here typing until 11 am (for two hours !!) the Courthouse Cafe in Pearisburg, Virginia after about 350 miles of trail, feeling fine and healthy without foot problems or footwear issues (as long as I keep my toenails trimmed and filed to extinction). I spent last night at the Holy Family Hostel here and am resupplied and ready to go ASAP after an inexpensive breakfast here. Bill is the latest of many very nice people whom I've met on this trip. Jeff, Bob, Richard, Robb & Jacqui are most memorable among the others.

On the latest leg of the trip a 35-pound fawn licked my legs & hands, overnighted with us, and followed three of us hikers for two miles.

My body is holding up well and strengthing now that I've reduced my pack weight to 18 pounds + 15 pounds of food for a week and 7 pounds of water due to drought. (Why doesn't that add up the the 37 pounds that the scale read for the whole thing?) I did have one day of shooting pain from my bad knee (cartlidge removed circa Vietnam) which prompted the radical reduction of weight. No further knee pains since, no lower back pains except fleetingly. The legs are MUCH stronger and I'm hiking 13+ miles a day "easily", especially with MORE food (gorp good) and a short afternoon snooze.

Only one more week of hiking until the 14th and I'm due to meet cousin Cynthia in Waynesboro. She is making her first ever research trip - good timing so I can help her.  I have another 93 miles to hike this week, but have been averaging about 13 miles a day "easily", so should not have trouble reaching Troutdale and I-81 by the 14th.

Apparently a brother of one of the Gowdy co-workers will be driving down to his sister's party in late September, so I should be able to make arrangements to meet him for a ride back to Columbia.

25 August, Saturday: Wow.!! Are trekking poles ever worthwhile - not to mention reducing weight. My pack weighed in at 23 pounds here in Damascus, Virginia and I've been able to maintain a brisk walk for several hours at a stretch - yesterday I covered 16 miles (to get to a spring by nightfall for a shower). Thanks, thanks, and thanks again to Robb and Jacqui for the gift of poles. Today's primary objective (now that I've breakfasted, stocked up on food, and collected the package mailed to myself from Kincora) is to buy a new set of hiking sneakers and mail "home" the old boots. I wanted sandals like the Keens that Robb had, but there are none available here. Damascus Eats is a great breakfast place and I'll see what they have to offer for dinner after the new shoes and packages are set to go.

I am in sooooOOO much better shape now that I am awakening with anticipation and planning for earlier morning hikes to avoid mid-day heat (and perhaps catch up on my journal after afternoon naps in shelters).

Fun, fun, fun. I am just delighted that the old body is finally adjusting to these demands although I still have a bit of extra weight around my middle. No telling if I'll lose that "pouch" in the next three weeks or not. I'm looking forward to starting the trail next year ASAP after the trail clears of snow & ice in the Smokey Mountain Nat'l Park.

I had the very best blackberries of the trail to date on the approach to Iron Mountain a couple of days ago. Nothing else of significance in terms of wildlife or companionship to report. Despite the lack of significance, mother nature continues to amaze me with the variety of things, circumstances and adoptations out there. I saw two trees with roots intertwined that looked to be "floating" a foot above ground level.

21 August, Wednesday: Bob and Pat Peoples at Kinkora are another couple of lovely people who host hikers and maintain the AT. I helped install a bridge yesterday and even had time to mail 12.5 pounds back to South Carolina. My pack is probably down to about 30 pounds for the next 45 miles to Damascus, Virginia. I enjoyed nearly a week of moderate distances with Robb and Jacquie since we HAD to stop for tea mornings and mid-day and HAD to stop early enough for Scrabble every evening. (I think Bob won the most games - they are tough competitors.) Now I'm off solo again so might be able to catch up on my "daily journal."

Lots to report and learn about AT hiking for fun and pleasure. 1) hostels and fellow hikers are a lot of fun 2) absolutely NEVER carry more than you need to carry 3) you can mail stuff that you might need ahead to yourself. and more in the next post.

?? Aug: Blueberries and views atop Hump Mountain and Grassy Ridge were marvelous. Robb, Jacquie and I apparently stopped to camp only ten minutes behind Stephen. Fortunately he caught us again after we shuttled ahead to Kinkora.

11 August, Saturday: Richard is an inspiration. He's about five years "ahead" of me, and I'm about five years "ahead" of him. Shelly is also "good people." Today I hope (Hah!) to catch my journal up-to-date, and send ALL the postcards I've been carrying the last 100 miles, so this post will be "short." I don't get any writing done at the hostel because it is much more fun to converse with Richard, and yesterday's food stop did not have Hagen Dazs or Ben & Jerry's, so today I'm bicycling across town to the Walmart for both.

10 August, Friday: in Erwin, Tennessee. The VIEW of the Nolichucky River from the AT overlooks coming into town were terrific !!
After only 10 days on the trail, I've almost forgotten how to type !!
Tonight I'm tent camping at Uncle Johnny's Nolichucky Hostel in Erwin, TN. For $6 I also get a shower, up to three shuttles into town and use of a bicycle.
So far so good. My boots are at the Tony Baker's shoe repair. Feet are good, but boot repair will help my heels. I've hiked 100 miles to date, including 70 miles since the last food stop - and I still have a couple of days worth of oats & seeds left. Erwin Buritto is already a favorite place for good food and its sign: "All hippies enter through back door - no exceptions."
No problems worth mentioning although a couple of days were exhausting after poor sleep. It has been hot, so staying "hydrated" has been absolutely necessary. I now fill up to overfull at every spring or stream during the day. Bugs are still no problem - what a refreshing surprise!

To answer a brotherly question: No planning Dean. I just got the Appalachian Trail "Data Book" which tells miles to next spring, shelter, camping spot, road, & groceries. (Thanks to Walt Maurer for that birthday present.) If I'm not accompanying someone else along the trail, I look at the data book to see where to find water next. Late afternoon I look at the Data Book to see where to camp next. Shelters often have picnic tables where I can update my journal easily.

We had the excitement of a bear in camp last night. He had grabbed Richard's pack while my Richard & Robert were getting water. "Supermarket" started yelling & chasing towards the bear as I approached camp. I chased until the bear dropped the pack, so I was a hero for the rest of the day.

6 August, Monday: The GREAT news is that the Bankson book proofs should be on the Gowdy's doorstep by early September - the "design team" conference call proceeded fine from the Camp Mountain summit (4750') with no falderall about signoffs for anything.

4th August, Saturday: Hot Springs, NC. The first 30+ miles of the trail have left me wondering "Why?" Maybe I'll figure it out in the next fifty miles to the next place to buy groceries. For now the important urgency is the laundrymat, ice cream, and a breakfast.

31 July, Tuesday: Donna will drop me off later today at the intersection of the Appalachian Trail with I-40 at the Tennessee border.

29 July, Sunday: I wasn't quite packed and it was somewhat more convenient for Donna to drop me off on her way to the Charlotte airport, so my departure was delayed a couple of days. Whenever a library has internet access I'll update this blog and read Gmail.

South Carolina: last stop before Appalachian Trail

23 July, Wednesday: Blue Bell Ice Cream sale ended yesterday - I'm fatter than usual. Mail arrived - Thanks Clarence. Genealogy CDs mailed. Asset allocation way outta whack, but not in need of any immediate fix. AT departure imminent - like this weekend.

17 July, Thursday: Still in Columbia. Contract signed & sent to publisher. Book sent to publisher. Compost pile turned, trees cut down, weeds pulled, grass mowed. After I finish hedge trimming I'll be caught up on yard work. It has been fun to walk & talk with Dick Richards for an hour every day. I did wash the down sleeping bag with the soap Walt gave me as a birthday present. Good results - more loft than previous three washings. Bye.

11 July, Wednesday: Yesterday I rode about 550 miles from Jim's at Mount Airy, MD to the Gowdy's in Columbia, SC. I stopped under overpasses to avoid rain three times, at a Motel 8 long enough to sew a patch on my pants, and was drenched by an unavoidable downpour only once. It was very nice to be back on my comfortable Beemer, but the bike is rattling uphill and hammering on long hills - Methinks I have a rod knock. Oh well, no worries until after I hike.

North Carolina motorcycling trip with friends

6 July: Safely back to Jim's in Mount Airy, MD before noon. Coffee and breakfast help, a shower will feel great. My facial skin is toooo hottttt with windburn. (Sorry Pam, but hoooot and haaat don't read right.)
Last night at dark a wicked looking storm with massive, turbulent black clouds approached as I neared Front Royal at the end of Skyline Drive. I had no tent, camped on a fire road, and fell asleep instantly - exhausted. Soon a loud clap of thunder awakened me and it rained intensely for 15 minutes. The thunder gave me only enough time to put on my motorcycling rain suit and to zip the bedroll protector (thanks Walt) in total darkness. I set the bedroll onto the bike seat and covered it all with a plastic tarp. Then I stood in the cold black rain dressed in only the rain suit, shoes & helmet until the dripping stopped. A noise in the dark reminded me that I had seen a big black bear a few miles earlier.

5 July: 500 miles on the Blue Ridge Parkway should qualify me for "Iron Butt" honors, especially on Jim's DR650. I didn't ride aggressively, but enjoyed the handling, the road, and the wildlife = baby bear streaking across the road in front of me with mama scowling from the roadside; one BIG bear who ambled along ahead of me and up a hillside (he took up a whole lane, so I stopped respectfully); one mama deer with a single spotted fawn; a repeat of mama deer with fawn; three turkeys alongside the road; one overstuffed turkey flying up into a roadside tree - or it may have been a jumbo jet struggling to take off without a runway; and WAY TOO MANY deer at the edge of the road at dusk.
Sadly I helped to pull out of the woods the big Suzuki touring bike (Victory?) belonging to an injured Canadian motorcyclist. No friends nearby, no cell phone, probably no US insurance, right hand & arm limp & useless. He just wanted to sit & think, so I left him in peace with best wishes. Fifteen miles later I saw a Park Ranger hustling southwards.

4 Jul: Chris at Acme Motorcycles in Ashville, NC replaced the punctured tube for me today, July 4th. What a Godsend. It deflated entirely 20 miles north of town on the Blue Ridge Parkway and the first bike by was a Suzuki V-Strom 650. The owner is delighted with it and prefers it to any BMW, good to know since Jim strongly recommended that bike to me. Several very nice people hereabouts deserve thanks and appreciation for being sympathetic and helping me with good advice, especially Gale who recommended Acme over breakfast at the nearby Waffle House. $200 tow, $100 room at Motel 6 for 2 nights (fun staff there); $60 motorcycle shop pickup; $35 flat rate tire change; and $10 for new tube. (RideLikeRon carries tools for that repair, so expense would have been $0.50 for tire patch. More costly on borrowed bike without tools & no tire patch kit.)
Any motorcycle trip that ends with the motorcyclist still alive is a good trip.
Any incident that only costs money is cheap.

1 Jul: It has been a good several days with Walt & Pam, Lee & Tammy, Jim and 11 other motorcycling guys & girls. We've been camping at the Iron Horse Motorcycle Lodge campground in Stecoah, NC and have ridden Deal's Gap, the (Tail of the Dragon) once. (Pictures to prove it are linked on my web site.) Lots of good riding hereabouts. Today most of the guys returned home, but Jim stayed another day. Walt & Pam; Lee & Tammy; Bill & Cheryl stayed until Tuesday.